We are back from a week’s jolly in Norfolk with the quondam-tropical Godparents.
This was on the whole a hoot. We took the car down, and it struck us, as it has
struck us before, taking the A17 through the fen country to the immediate NW of
the Wash, what a wildly sinister area it is: apart from the sullen acres of
cabbages mitigated only by an occasional church spire, the rectories suggest
axe-wielding vicars, the grim little mansion houses, squires who have fled, taken
to drink, or become werewolves. At one point on the road there is a sign to a
development of holiday homes, and we looked at one another: who, and for what,
would choose to take holidays in this desolate territory? Another indication of
its uncanninness. We passed a field in the region of Sleaford lit with cheerful
yellow, which at first glance, made a nice change from cabbages. Er …Yes,
definitely. Daffodils. This is the third week of September, for Pete’s sake. Then
you cross a lovely swing bridge over the Nene with a little gazebo perched
atop, and suddenly you are in Norfolk .
No more spires, churches have squat, square, or sometimes round, towers, there
are deep banks of trees, flint-and-brick houses, and it is all very attractive.
We went, among other expeditions, to
Holkham, a palace built for some perverse reason out of yellow lavatory brick,
to Norwich, where Godmama found a gratifying variety of bric à brac which comes
more expensive in Edinburgh which he will sell there, and I got a haircut, to Houghton, where Sir Robert
Walpole’s pictures have been temporarily returned from Russia to the rooms
which were designed for them – always interesting –, to King’s Lynn, which is pretty awful, and to
a perfectly charming Shell Museum. A nice balance of adventure, exploration,
some grand houses, some unexpected finds, and country walks. We returned via North Yorkshire , the Borders drove-road from Moffat, and
Glenshee. Now we are up to our ears in administration, but at least we feel
that we have had an interesting and fortifying time.
It's almost time for the Americans to descend -- rest up!
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